A lost day and a week in Aotearoa

Just to let everyone back at home (most likely covered in at least a frost if not snow) know, I’m beginning to write this blog sitting on Bluffs Hill, Napier whilst it’s about 24 degrees celcius outside. I have a view of the Tasman Sea and am eating some nice fresh, New Zealand grown pineapple.

Anyway, so having left Rarotonga at 5.30pm on Sunday 14^th November, we eventually arrived in Auckland on Monday 15^th at 9.30pm! I make this sound like a long flight, however having crossed the date-time line, we had actually moved 23 hours forward, and travelled for a mere 4 hours. Given our late arrival we headed to our hostel to drop off our bags. As this was our first real hostel experience we weren’t sure what to expect, and no sooner as we arrived had we met a drunk girl leaving the building talking about how Gin and Tonic had ruined her life, not to mention the rather freakish guy (the grebo type) going up in the lift bobbing his head, breathing heavily, whilst in a state of unconsciousness to some of the heaviest rock music we’d heard for a while. Following a brief foray into Auckland to get our bearings, we decided to catch up on some of the 23 hours we had missed through sleep.

As Tuesday arrived we had arranged to see Becky and Stace (a couple of school friends), who had arrived in NZ a week before; and having headed North in their campervan arrived back in Auckland to see us. Obviously before this whilst brushing my teeth I bumped into the grebo…awkward and scary to say the least. As me and Soph had done little preparation for NZ and seen little of the city they showed us around and suggested a few things to do when we go north ourselves.

Following lunch, we went our separate ways as me and Soph spent the majority of the afternoon and evening searching for our own campervan. Having spent hours looking for the perfect vehicle we forgot that it was a little milestone for us (5 and a half year anniversary) and decided to treat ourselves to a bite to eat at the Auckland harbour at night.

Having failed to secure a campervan the day before, Soph decided to wake up early and explore the city to try and find a good deal. As I had hit the jackpot with a lie in I was rudely awoken to Soph informing me she had found an ‘escape’ campervan. Described by herself as the “cool, colourful ones” we headed into town and signed ourselves up to our ‘butterfly’ (not too camp a name then) camper. Deciding to celebrate by going to Auckland Zoo, after firstly waiting for 45 minutes for the right bus but in the wrong direction, we eventually arrived. After taking an age to actually reach Auckland Zoo, we decided it was too expensive (especially as most of the shows had been on earlier in the day), so instead we opted for a free walk around the park next door.

The next morning we woke up eager to pick up our van. Arriving at ‘Escape’ at 9.30am we sorted out a few formalities and headed off onto the open road by 10.30 (this time without a wheel screech as in San Fran). With little planned as for what we were going to do for the next few days we headed north from Auckland, firstly stopping at Pak n’ Save (the cheaper of the two big supermarkets) before heading to Paihia via Whangarei falls. The falls are apparently the most photographed waterfall in New Zealand according to the Lonely Planet guide, however they weren’t as impressive as you would have expected. Arriving in Paihia we were set for our first night of camping!

As Friday arrived, we spoke to the chap who owned the site who recommended that we should do a tour along 90 mile beach to see Cape Reinga (the most northerly point in New Zealand). Deciding on a campsite for 2 nights in Ahipara, we headed north on the 250km journey, however not before visiting Waitangi – made famous for its “Treaty between Maori chiefs and The British Crown” (Lonely Planet, 2010). Unfortunately it was $25 each, which we thought was a little pricey. However, deciding to try a different plan of attack, we managed to sneak into the gardens via another entrance to look at a few historical artefacts such as the Treaty House and the Wakas (canoes). After personally being happy and content with our misdemeanour Soph was not finished. Whilst I went back to the Van, she decided to go into one of the museums (through the back door) to find out a little more – I’ve been to Spain with Soph on run away from a bill (poor meal and service justifies why) but breaking into a cultural heritage site…that was maybe a new low (or high depending on how you look at it!).

Before arriving in Ahipara we stopped for lunch in Mangonui, renowned for its’ Fish n’ Chips. Forgetting how vicious sea gulls are, I stupidly decided to throw a few chips which turned the whole sea front into chaos. From what started with only 3 sea gulls turned into 30 if not more. Better late than never, Soph at this point decided to highlight what a stupid decision this was…isn’t hindsight a wonderful thing.

To add to this highly adventurous day, whilst cooking chilli I decided it would probably be best to chop the end of my thumb off. Soph, reacting like all women probably do, ran for the medical kit after informing me that it would be a good idea to put my arm in the air to stop the blood flow. Me, reacting like a man carried on chopping with one hand before feeling a little faint. With Soph arriving a few seconds later, I was looking a little pale and thought it would be best to sit down and drink some water whilst Soph nursed my wound.

The next morning we woke up and headed on a bus for Cape Reinga. After experiencing a small Maori Hakka we were on our way. Our driver, a local Maori man introduced himself in the Maori language. On the way up to Cape Reinga he explained a lot about the history of the local flora and fauna in the area, an extremely interesting insight into how both natural and human factors had shaped the ways in which people lived as well as the surrounding landscape. During the journey we also enjoyed his singing of Maori tunes! After a short stop for an amazing Ice Cream we arrived at the Cape and headed out on an extremely foggy footpath towards a lighthouse which is positioned between the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean. Although it was a shame that the cloud was so low, pictures show what an incredible scene this must have been for those who first settled on the island.

On the way back, the bus took a detour along 90-mile beach (rather than State Highway 1) - strangely enough, the beach actually measures 55 miles. Driving along the beach we arrived at the infamous sand dunes which run for miles along the coastline, some measuring at least 75 metres high! Being handed snow toboggans we headed up the dunes where we repeatedly flew down them – similar to the feeling during snowy winters, only we were warm and dry! With that, the excitement was over according to the brochure. However, upon leaving the beach our bus managed to get stuck in the sand. Following a number of failed attempts with other buses and cars trying to tow us out, as well as a number of us trying to help dig the bus out, one of the locals nipped home and got his tractor…as you do! Upon his arrival the bus was finally freed and we headed home for the evening, not more thumb chopping on the menu…just reheated, no-nonsense chilli.

As our final day in the Northlands arrived we decided to take a more scenic route down towards Auckland. Travelling along the West Coast, we visited the Wairere Boulders which was an area of naturally formed basalt rocks, although it does sound a little dull on the front of it, it was quite interesting after all. From here, we headed to Opononi for a spot of lunch over an incredible view of the Waihou River feeding into the Tasman Sea. On route to our planned stop of Wellsford (just North of Auckland) we visited the renowned Waipoua Kauri Forest. The Kauri tree is NZ’s most famous, with some specimens being over 45,000 years old. Within the forest we saw Tane Mahuta (the Maori forest God). Standing at 51m tall and boasting a 14m girth it is astonishing in its stature.

As time passed by we decided to head further South than originally planned. Passing by Auckland we decided that we would either try and stop somewhere for free or carry on until we were close to Hamilton. After trying a couple of areas off the main roads, we eventually decided it would be safer and more cost efficient to find a proper campsite (as there is a $200 fine for camping illegally). Stopping in potentially one of the less aptly named places, we arrived in the dark of night at a campsite in Huntley.