Crossing the Cook Straight

As Monday arrived we headed to Wellington to have a look around the town and find out where we would get the boat from the following afternoon. After spending a rather long period looking for parking with more than a maximum 30 minutes we eventually settled for a campsite on the waterfront next to the ferry port as it worked out worthwhile since parking was so expensive.

Having heard that Te Papa museum was a good place to go to find out about New Zealand and Maori history we headed there not sure what to expect, but the fact it was free made the decision an easy one. The most interesting part of the museum was definitely the animal section which had not only the bones from many different animal species ranging from Whales to Kiwis but also a preserved gigantic squid which had been caught as by-catch during a fishing expedition in 2007. There was also an interesting section which gave an historical view of earthquakes, even as recent as the Christchurch earthquakes from earlier this year. 

One of the wildlife displays from Te Papa Museum, Wellington

In the afternoon we headed for the cable cars which took us to an incredible view over Wellington and its surrounding areas. After a brief visit to the botanical gardens we headed back in to town to find somewhere to have a drink (and maybe watch the cricket!). Finding an Irish bar, Soph headed off for a spot of shopping whilst I was drawn to the cricket until Tom and Caroline (the couple from the Skydive) bumped into me.

Before long, the four of us had had dinner in a little Asian restaurant where I was forced to eat noodle soup with chop sticks before returning to the Irish pub where we had originally found the cricket on TV. By 11pm we decided it was time to head back to the van and call it a night.

Following a brief run around Wellington Harbour we grabbed a bite to eat and headed to the New Zealand parliament buildings; the Beehive and Parliament House. Unfortunately we arrived 5 minutes after the tour had departed and unfortunately weren’t allowed to join in late, typical. Thus, we settled for a DVD describing the political history of NZ instead.

At 1pm we departed for the South Island on our 3 hour ferry journey through the picturesque mountainous coastline of both islands before arriving in Picton. Deciding that we would head south towards Kaikoura for whale watching the next day, we set off on our 150km journey. Along the way, we noticed a young girl who had got a flat tyre in one of the less busy areas along the road (not that any roads in NZ are busy). After deliberating whether or not to stop, we drove past, before promptly changing our minds as we came to her rescue. Strangely, although she had a flat tyre, there were 4 tyres that had been taken from another car sitting in the back of her car, however, as these did not fit hers, I had to lift them out and eventually get to the spare tyre.

The view along the Cook Straight crossing from the North to the South Island

After the short delay to make ensure our karma was high, we headed for Kaikoura where we unfortunately ended up in one of the more grotty campsites around.

As Wednesday arrived we got up early to book on the whale watching tour. Before the tour we headed to a seal colony and were surprised to also see lots of dusky dolphins playing in the sea too.

Arriving at the Kaikoura Whale Watching HQ we were given a brief explanation about Sperm whales and their history. An important question about their name being answered as at one time they were hunted for their Wax (which was stored in their heads) which fisherman thought looked like sperm, thus their name was thought up. We were also told that we were likely to only see one whale; considering we had paid a lot of money for this experience, we were slightly underwhelmed leading up to our departure by boat.

Heading about 15km out to sea, using a hydrophone, they picked up the noises the whales were making and in turn calculate the direction they were in. After a few minutes we eventually arrived to see a whale on the surface taking in huge breaths of air (they do this for 10 minutes before diving for about 45). The shear size of the creature was incredible, it was unbelievable to think that an animal could be so big, and living in the sea! After a while it eventually dived down deep into the ocean which was again, and awesome sight! After a while, there was another whale spotted by another boat so we headed out to see it, and luckily we did! Again, we waited for a short while before seeing this incredible creature dive! Once we had seen the whales we were also lucky enough to see hundreds of the dusky dolphins, this time much closer up right next to the boat!

The money shot as the Whale descends for it's 45-60 minute feed, Kaikoura

In the evening we headed North to Blenheim as our plan was to head to the North-West tip to Abel Tasman the next day. After a night at a free campsite we headed out from Blenheim through to Nelson and decided to stop have a bathe on the beach. Although the sun was shining and the beach was beautiful, we did find ourselves lying next to one of the more annoying couples in New Zealand. Maybe harsh, but they were incredibly flirtatious, brought on more by the whiny, high-pitched voice of the kiwi girl, although a quick dip in the sea soon rid us of this annoying situation.

After a couple of hours at the beach, we headed to Marahau (southern tip of Abel Tasman National Park) to our campsite for the night. After a brief visit to the info-site we decided that the next morning we would opt for a 15km walk rather than hiring kayaks since we would see the same things, but save ourselves $65 each!!

Waking up the next morning, I had forgotten that we had to pay for showers…so far none of the other campsites had charged extra, so this was going to be an experience not to forget. Dropping money into the shower a countdown began…6 Minutes! Now, I thought a 6 minute shower was fairly reasonable, however once you experience that, you soon realise it’s not. Quickly lathering up and nearly washed a beep suddenly came on…1 minute to go. At this point, you feel as thought your world is ending, and suddenly…it’s all over, no more water, no more heat, certainly the lowest point I had felt for a while, especially as there was a cool wind blowing through a window in the cubicle.

Ready and washed (just about) we headed into the national park choosing a walk which should have taken 5 hours. Since the weather was so warm and it was such a clear day, the views along the way were made more incredible. Mountains on one side, the sea on the other, and various plants and animals surrounding us really highlighted this beautiful area. Stopping at a couple of beaches and bays along the way, we eventually returned just over 3 hours later (not the 5 which we had originally been told). We then spent the afternoon heading South towards Mahinapua Creek to another free campsite situated next to a beautiful, picturesque lake.

Just one of the gorgeous views along the walk, Abel Tasman

Soph Posing for the camera, Abel Tasman

The next morning we had decided to give ourselves a bit of a day off, especially as we had travelled over 1,200 km over the previous 6 days. With only about 100km to travel to our next stop - Franz Joseph Glacier - we stopped in one of the towns just north to book our glacier walk for the next day. Arriving at our campsite, we set off on finding something to eat in the town, as well as obviously catching up with the cricket.

Waking up the next day, and we had our glacier walked arranged for a 9am start. Arriving at the glacier at about 10, geared up with our winter coats and crampons at the ready we headed along our ascent. Now, looking at the glacier, it doesn’t appear so significant at the bottom, as the first section of our walk consisted of going up a rocky section. However, the remainder of the walk was incredible! Having stood for thousands of years, the glacier has gradually retreated, but what remains really is impressive.

Before entering the icy pass we attached our crampons and then headed out behind our Australian instructor. Our group was quite multi-national too, with a few English, a few Dutch, a Canadian guy and an Austrian girl! Once on the ice, it was interesting to firstly learn how to walk, and having perfected that we could then begin our ascent as our instructor used his pick axe to carve stairs along the glacier. The ascent along the glacier really was impressive. Making our way through icy crevices and sliding between extremely narrow iced walls made for an unforgettable experience! At some points the passes were maybe only a foot wide, and since there was a group in front of us, we often had to wait in these conditions not too dissimilar to a freezer, yeh we were chilly. As the walk came to an end, our group was waiting…again, and decided to keep both ourselves and our instructor entertained as each of us took a go at getting each other active. Ranging from a penguin waddle to an ostrich dance, I chose my D-I-S-C-O chant whilst Soph deployed the Mexican wave.

After eventually returning to the bottom of the glacier we headed back to base where we returned our winter coats and trousers and headed back to the campsite. On our arrival we bumped into Tom and Caroline again! In the evening we headed to the campsite bar where we met up with the people from the glacier walk who were part of the Kiwi Experience (a coach party which moves around the North and South islands dropping people off in various places along the way.

Me and Soph between the glacier walls, Franz Joseph

A rush of air and an explosive gas canister!

(Firstly sorry about the delay, this is week 2 and we’re currently in week 5 of NZ...hopefully we’ll catch up in Christchurch as we’re based there for 5 nights which should give us time to finish a few more. Also, apologies for the length of the blogs recently, it’s difficult to keep them short!)

Waking up in Huntley we headed for the Waitomo Caves (famous their glow worms and black water rafting) via Otorohonga Kiwi House. Aside from the native birds of New Zealand, there were a number of different bird and reptile species within the enclosures, and after spending an hour or so at the house we moved on to Waitomo.

Arriving in the area we visited to I-Site where the lady working recommended we should freedom camp on a local park. Although it was called a park it wasn’t like a typical English park. With glorious countryside views and surrounded by sheep we set about on making some dinner. As this was our first night of free camping we decided to have our first go at using our gas cooker – an interesting experience to say the least! After lighting the hob and noticing that the flame was only tiny, I moved the pan on the hob thinking it would allow for a bigger flame, oh how right I was…in a wrong sort of way. Within seconds the canister went up in flames, obviously in my knowledge of gas fires I thought kicking it over would put it out, how wrong I was again. By this point both myself and Soph were acting rather hastily and decided it would be best to drive away…well, 10m away anyway. However after a few minutes of panic we eventually filled a pan up with water which put it out before the whole park went up in flames.

After a few minutes we did eventually manage to light the canister properly and cooked sausage and egg butties! Following our action packed dinner we were treated to another bit of excitement when washing up. The tongs decided to firstly attack Soph then myself, both ending up with sliced fingers!

As Tuesday arrived, we had booked to go black water rafting in the Waitomo Caves. After a brief introduction by our guide Rodney both ourselves, Ken and Kenny (a US father and son duo) headed out to the caves, wet-suited up and with rubber rings at the ready. Arriving in the caves, it was interesting learning about why and how glow words actually are so bright (it’s all in the poo apparently…). After seeing hundreds of the worms we headed into the main section of the cave. Crawling along an incredibly narrow section (about 30cm wide in some parts) towards one of the underground waterfalls. The trip continued as we got into our rubber rings and meandered along the cave’s river black water rafting in complete darkness with a few jumps and a slide at the end.

Deciding that our next destination was to be Rotorua (famous for it’s sulphur hot springs and mud baths) we headed there, with the main aim of getting a campsite with internet access as I had my PGCE interview arranged over Skype – technology these days aye! Arriving about 5 (having gone via Hobbiton – the town where much of Lord of the Rings was filmed) we had a bite to eat, more importantly steak and a jacket potato! As most of the campsites had hot pools available for free, we decided we would check ours out…unfortunately they were incredibly disappointing since there were 4 pools each the size of a large bathtub, not to mention the fact they we outdoors and it was bitterly cold, thus we decided to give them a miss.

Waking up on Wednesday, it was a refreshing feeling having completed the interview; however it was a shame about the smell that lingered over Rotorua…somewhat similar to rotten egg (because of the sulphur). However, not deterring us we headed to Wai-o-Tapo Thermal Wonderland…more smelly things woooo. At 10.30am every morning Lady Knox Geyser is artificially erupted by dropping soap into it…different but impressive. As we arrived with little time before the spectacle we decided to sneak into the Geyser (as it was separate to the main features). After watching the eruption (where boiling hot water was shot over 25m high) we decided we would go to the main park (which cost $35). However with both of us seeing an opportunity we managed to sneak in as a school group went in, obviously fooling the employee to think that we were either teachers or school children (most likely the former).

Having gotten into the park for free there were a number of incredible natural features ranging from boiling mud pools to fluorescent lakes. It was understandable why someone would pay to get into the park, however given that we had got in for free made it more worthwhile.

As evening arrived we visited the Polynesian Spa which was positioned with a view over Lake Rotorua. With 8 different pools ranging from 36 – 43 degrees it was a brilliant way to end the day. However not before meeting Queens biggest Thai fan. A Thai guy working in the spa was asking how we were, where we were from, when he responded with, “I no Leicester…Leicestershire?!” Obviously not sure why he knew Leicester, he explained that one of the members of Queen was born there and that he was also the youngest and only member not to be involved in 5ive’s version of ‘We Will Rock You’ (apart from Freddy of course), enthralling stuff. With things coming to a close, we headed for the showers…another funny story. With about 100 Chinese tourists also at the spa Soph experienced one of the more bizarre moments in life – she was surrounded by a swarm of hairy, naked, old Chinese ladies!

After another night of freedom camping, this time by a beautiful lake, we headed into Rotorua to the local library for some free internet time to check a few emails aswell as BBC Sport of course. We briefly visited the government gardens where we saw locals dabbing a hand a garden bowls.

Driving along highway 1 we stopped to see the Huka Dam which opens every two hours into an incredible gorge.  As there were also cruises running along the Huka River we headed off to the boat to meet our captain for the day…Dave, great name I thought! Along the way we saw a number of native species of birds and ducks as well as local flora, where the Californian Pine trees were becoming more of a problem rather than a solution (which was what they were firstly intended for).

Arriving at the falls was magnificent. As the only major inlet into the river, it was like a never ending explosion as hundreds of thousands of litres of water passed into the river every second, it was an incredible site! During the cruise we met a really nice Australian family who were visiting as the husband was playing in a few music gigs. As the cruise came to an end we dived into the freezing water (we were warned!). We were amazed to see Dave’s (the Captain’s) dad, who must have been in his 70’s, also jump in. Fortunately there was a tiny tributary which brought in warm water – such a relief - as well as thermal outlets underneath the sand that we dug our feet into to warm them.

Before arriving at our campsite for the next two nights we visited a glass blowing gallery which was interesting, it was just a shame all he was producing that day was a paperweight, although still impressive. Eager to get to the campsite as the first Ashes Test had started we pulled up to see England struggling, no change there we thought…how wrong we were. In the evening we opted to have a barbecue which was probably the best meal of the trip yet - a huge burger each with a small salad and a large serving of chips.

As morning arrived we decided we would potentially do a skydive. After a very light breakfast we spent an hour or so wrapping a few Christmas presents for family back at home (I say we but as I can’t wrap particularly well, Soph did the majority!). With Taupo known as the Skydive capital of the World (over 30,000 jumps per year!) we headed to the airport complex where there were 3 companies to choose from, eventually we decided to go with Skydive Taupo! With our jump time set at 2pm, it was recommended that we should get some lunch beforehand. We headed back to the campsite where we each had a burger left over which was tentatively eaten as we pondered each of the outcomes of what we were about to do.

Arriving at the base we met the other 2 couples taking on a jump, one of which was staying at our campsite, Tom and Caroline, a really nice dutch couple who we happen to bump into a few more times in the coming weeks! We were shown a brief video before being sent off to our professional instructors who would be attached to our backs. Having got to know the welsh chap on the front desk he thought it would be funny to pair me with a Liverpudlian midget whilst Soph was pared with what they called the machine…and he was!

Getting into our boiler suits, for maybe the last time, we headed to our bright pink plane, firstly being interviewed for our video by our tandem partner. With 12 people crammed into it we gradually rose to 15,000 feet, one more interview and an oxygen mask later, we were off. Jumping 3^rd and 4^th we headed out to freefall for about 60 seconds. With a huge rush of adrenaline…as well as saliva, combined with the inability to breath properly created an incredible feeling as you just fall rapidly to about 5,000 feet before the moment of truth, will it or won’t it, and gladly as we are writing now, both parachutes opened. With about 4 minutes floating above Lake Taupo, an incredible view led to our descent.

After the jump we headed into the cinema which showed the videos from each of our jumps. With myself having maybe the funniest video (at my expense) as during the freefall my face looks as though I am morphing into a chipmunk! I’ll be sure to put in on Facebook as soon as possible (probably slowly based on the sluggish internet speeds here in NZ).

On Saturday we headed into town as there was the annual cycling race around Lake Taupo (160km) won in a time of just over 3 hours 30 minutes, not bad! It also gave us the opportunity to send our wrapped presents home (which cost nearly as much as the presents alone!).

We arrived in Napier early afternoon and wandered along the historical art deco streets before enjoying a hot chocolate. We bumped into the Australian family, who told us to head for Bluff’s Hill, the highest point overlooking Napier and its historical port, where I began to write my last blog from.

Arriving in Napier at 9.30 the next morning Soph departed on an art deco tour of the town, whilst myself not the biggest art deco enthusiast headed for the internet café to catch up on the past weeks events…mainly Saturdays football results. After meeting up an hour or so later we headed towards Wellington as we had our ferry to the South Island booked for Tuesday. 

Ready for some black water rafting in Waitomo Glow Worm Caves

Lady Know Geyser...freebie in Wai-o-Tapu!

Huka Falls

Dave Skydiving landing

Soph floating through the air

Us and our pink plane

A lost day and a week in Aotearoa

Just to let everyone back at home (most likely covered in at least a frost if not snow) know, I’m beginning to write this blog sitting on Bluffs Hill, Napier whilst it’s about 24 degrees celcius outside. I have a view of the Tasman Sea and am eating some nice fresh, New Zealand grown pineapple.

Anyway, so having left Rarotonga at 5.30pm on Sunday 14^th November, we eventually arrived in Auckland on Monday 15^th at 9.30pm! I make this sound like a long flight, however having crossed the date-time line, we had actually moved 23 hours forward, and travelled for a mere 4 hours. Given our late arrival we headed to our hostel to drop off our bags. As this was our first real hostel experience we weren’t sure what to expect, and no sooner as we arrived had we met a drunk girl leaving the building talking about how Gin and Tonic had ruined her life, not to mention the rather freakish guy (the grebo type) going up in the lift bobbing his head, breathing heavily, whilst in a state of unconsciousness to some of the heaviest rock music we’d heard for a while. Following a brief foray into Auckland to get our bearings, we decided to catch up on some of the 23 hours we had missed through sleep.

As Tuesday arrived we had arranged to see Becky and Stace (a couple of school friends), who had arrived in NZ a week before; and having headed North in their campervan arrived back in Auckland to see us. Obviously before this whilst brushing my teeth I bumped into the grebo…awkward and scary to say the least. As me and Soph had done little preparation for NZ and seen little of the city they showed us around and suggested a few things to do when we go north ourselves.

Following lunch, we went our separate ways as me and Soph spent the majority of the afternoon and evening searching for our own campervan. Having spent hours looking for the perfect vehicle we forgot that it was a little milestone for us (5 and a half year anniversary) and decided to treat ourselves to a bite to eat at the Auckland harbour at night.

Having failed to secure a campervan the day before, Soph decided to wake up early and explore the city to try and find a good deal. As I had hit the jackpot with a lie in I was rudely awoken to Soph informing me she had found an ‘escape’ campervan. Described by herself as the “cool, colourful ones” we headed into town and signed ourselves up to our ‘butterfly’ (not too camp a name then) camper. Deciding to celebrate by going to Auckland Zoo, after firstly waiting for 45 minutes for the right bus but in the wrong direction, we eventually arrived. After taking an age to actually reach Auckland Zoo, we decided it was too expensive (especially as most of the shows had been on earlier in the day), so instead we opted for a free walk around the park next door.

The next morning we woke up eager to pick up our van. Arriving at ‘Escape’ at 9.30am we sorted out a few formalities and headed off onto the open road by 10.30 (this time without a wheel screech as in San Fran). With little planned as for what we were going to do for the next few days we headed north from Auckland, firstly stopping at Pak n’ Save (the cheaper of the two big supermarkets) before heading to Paihia via Whangarei falls. The falls are apparently the most photographed waterfall in New Zealand according to the Lonely Planet guide, however they weren’t as impressive as you would have expected. Arriving in Paihia we were set for our first night of camping!

As Friday arrived, we spoke to the chap who owned the site who recommended that we should do a tour along 90 mile beach to see Cape Reinga (the most northerly point in New Zealand). Deciding on a campsite for 2 nights in Ahipara, we headed north on the 250km journey, however not before visiting Waitangi – made famous for its “Treaty between Maori chiefs and The British Crown” (Lonely Planet, 2010). Unfortunately it was $25 each, which we thought was a little pricey. However, deciding to try a different plan of attack, we managed to sneak into the gardens via another entrance to look at a few historical artefacts such as the Treaty House and the Wakas (canoes). After personally being happy and content with our misdemeanour Soph was not finished. Whilst I went back to the Van, she decided to go into one of the museums (through the back door) to find out a little more – I’ve been to Spain with Soph on run away from a bill (poor meal and service justifies why) but breaking into a cultural heritage site…that was maybe a new low (or high depending on how you look at it!).

Before arriving in Ahipara we stopped for lunch in Mangonui, renowned for its’ Fish n’ Chips. Forgetting how vicious sea gulls are, I stupidly decided to throw a few chips which turned the whole sea front into chaos. From what started with only 3 sea gulls turned into 30 if not more. Better late than never, Soph at this point decided to highlight what a stupid decision this was…isn’t hindsight a wonderful thing.

To add to this highly adventurous day, whilst cooking chilli I decided it would probably be best to chop the end of my thumb off. Soph, reacting like all women probably do, ran for the medical kit after informing me that it would be a good idea to put my arm in the air to stop the blood flow. Me, reacting like a man carried on chopping with one hand before feeling a little faint. With Soph arriving a few seconds later, I was looking a little pale and thought it would be best to sit down and drink some water whilst Soph nursed my wound.

The next morning we woke up and headed on a bus for Cape Reinga. After experiencing a small Maori Hakka we were on our way. Our driver, a local Maori man introduced himself in the Maori language. On the way up to Cape Reinga he explained a lot about the history of the local flora and fauna in the area, an extremely interesting insight into how both natural and human factors had shaped the ways in which people lived as well as the surrounding landscape. During the journey we also enjoyed his singing of Maori tunes! After a short stop for an amazing Ice Cream we arrived at the Cape and headed out on an extremely foggy footpath towards a lighthouse which is positioned between the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean. Although it was a shame that the cloud was so low, pictures show what an incredible scene this must have been for those who first settled on the island.

On the way back, the bus took a detour along 90-mile beach (rather than State Highway 1) - strangely enough, the beach actually measures 55 miles. Driving along the beach we arrived at the infamous sand dunes which run for miles along the coastline, some measuring at least 75 metres high! Being handed snow toboggans we headed up the dunes where we repeatedly flew down them – similar to the feeling during snowy winters, only we were warm and dry! With that, the excitement was over according to the brochure. However, upon leaving the beach our bus managed to get stuck in the sand. Following a number of failed attempts with other buses and cars trying to tow us out, as well as a number of us trying to help dig the bus out, one of the locals nipped home and got his tractor…as you do! Upon his arrival the bus was finally freed and we headed home for the evening, not more thumb chopping on the menu…just reheated, no-nonsense chilli.

As our final day in the Northlands arrived we decided to take a more scenic route down towards Auckland. Travelling along the West Coast, we visited the Wairere Boulders which was an area of naturally formed basalt rocks, although it does sound a little dull on the front of it, it was quite interesting after all. From here, we headed to Opononi for a spot of lunch over an incredible view of the Waihou River feeding into the Tasman Sea. On route to our planned stop of Wellsford (just North of Auckland) we visited the renowned Waipoua Kauri Forest. The Kauri tree is NZ’s most famous, with some specimens being over 45,000 years old. Within the forest we saw Tane Mahuta (the Maori forest God). Standing at 51m tall and boasting a 14m girth it is astonishing in its stature.

As time passed by we decided to head further South than originally planned. Passing by Auckland we decided that we would either try and stop somewhere for free or carry on until we were close to Hamilton. After trying a couple of areas off the main roads, we eventually decided it would be safer and more cost efficient to find a proper campsite (as there is a $200 fine for camping illegally). Stopping in potentially one of the less aptly named places, we arrived in the dark of night at a campsite in Huntley.