Tuesday, 14 June 2011

Dodgy boarder crossings and iffy stomachs to deep sea diving and a full moon party!


Setting off on our journey from Siem Reap to Bangkok, all was good until arriving at the rather confusing and busy border crossing. From backpackers crying over refused entry, to lorries packed to the rafters with livestock, and local children illegally crossing by hiding within scrap metal trucks. Once stamped out of Cambodia we headed across no man’s land to Thailand where having to wait an hour, (in a boiling hot office where they decided not to switch on any of the 8 air con units) we were eventually allowed entry. Once through, SE Asia again showed signs of how backwards some things are as we were forced to wait for over an hour to be separated into minibuses for the journey to Bangkok and Koh San Road. 



That evening, after being dropped off on the side of a motorway, we wandered along the hustle and bustle of Koh San Road before retreating for the night. With only two nights in Bangkok, the next day we headed to the Indian Embassy to arrange visas which was rather difficult considering we had to take a local bus and we could speak not even the basics of the thai language and the bus conductor didn’t know any English! After a lot of confusion it was sorted, so we spent the afternoon at Bangkok’s most famous of sights – the Grand Palace, where I was lent some attractive pyjamas as my knee length shorts were too short. Although it was an exceptional site, having spent the past week seeing temples and such likes, they start to look the same after a while. 





As our final day in Bangkok arrived it was St Patricks Day, and what better way to start than to venture to an Irish Bar for some bangers and mash, far from cheap, but effective. Having decided the previous day we would go to the Full Moon Party in Koh Phangan we spent the day not doing a lot before heading off on our 18 hour bus and boat journey to Koh Samui.
 
Finally arriving in Samui, we eventually met up with the Danes (Bjorn, Troels and Mikel who we’d met in Aus) following a bit more confusion over which McDonalds to meet up at – we didn’t expect that there’d be 2 on such a small Thai island. That evening the five of us set off on a speed boat to Koh Panghan for the Full Moon Party where UV was a must. Once kitted out in our various glowing colours we set off with our alcohol infused buckets in search of the beach where we eventually met up with a few girls from uni and partied the night away. 




The next morning...well, afternoon, the true damage from the night before was acknowledged. The three Danes had managed to get lost from one another during the night and once back on Samui, Troels was offered the services of a Thai lady to which he refused, meanwhile on Panghan, Bjorn opted for the most fateful error of all…a tattoo bearing the names Troels and Mikel….on his arse!

As Samui and its beautiful beach came to an end, the next stop was Koh Tao, where the five of us continued on our journey together once more and signed up for a four day PADI course. Since there were four guys and one girl, it’s gotta be said that Soph definitely pulled the short straw as the five of us shared a room. As for the course, we were pretty lucky to be given Rich McClean, or Richy Mc or the Macdaddy (just a few of the Danes names for him) for our instructor, as we spent a few hours each day in the classroom with him as well as four dives in open water! We all passed the rather easy exam, lacking in any invigilation whatsoever! Most evenings were spent relaxing watching films and quoting The Hangover, however following the completion of our course, most of us felt exactly like the film as we got rather blotto that night – not to mention Troels getting punched in the face by a Frenchman in a wheel chair…hilarious.



On leaving Koh Tao for Phi Phi me and Soph set off for our night boat (whilst the Danes opted for Koh Panghan instead), however deciding not to secure our bags to the roof of the pickup, mine flew into the darkness and was fortunate not to injure an oncoming motorcyclist! Our driver of the pick-up just laughed, no apology of course. That night was an experience to say the least; packed in like sardines the boat was crashing along the choppy ocean, the windows banging open and closed, water leaking in through the roof, as well as a huge thunder storm to go with it and about 20 lifejackets between 100. Eventually, however, we did arrive in Surithani where we were sent to the West to Phi Phi, described as one of the more beautiful islands in Thailand. 




Arriving in Phi Phi was so different to the previous islands, with no roads and small intricate streets, it made a complete contrast, however not too dissimilar in relation to its touristy nature. That day, we headed to the beach, before the beginning of ‘The End’ as the storms came in and decided to continue for the remainder of our time on the island. After two more days of rain, we decided to leave and head back to Bangkok on our way up to Chiang Mai – only to pick up our passports - once in Bangkok is definitely enough! Our plan to take another 18 hour journey up to the capital however was ruined as a bridge had collapsed on the mainland during the unseasonal floods and we were forced to fly from Phuket instead.


Now at this point, I will warn you, the next few hours for myself consisted of vomiting, nausea…and the other… due to a dodgey piece of meat the night before. With choppy seas due to the weather, we were immediately given sick bags before setting off to Phuket and that means only one thing…and yes, I did…many times. A flight later (involving more of the above) and finally we arrived in Bangkok, which was conveniently when the food poisoning decided to disappear. The next couple of days were spent recovering and being nursed by Soph, as well as collecting our passports from the Indian embassy before flying off to the north of Thailand to Chiang Mai – the choice of a flight simply due to the speed (1 hour rather than a 15 hour coach journey). 


Wednesday, 4 May 2011

Hello South East Asia...First Stop - Cambodia!

Our first taste of a TukTuk
Thursday, 10th March - Flying from Kuching in Borneo, we were forced to transit for a few hours in the rather luxurious Singapore Airport, before finally arriving in Phnom Penh, Cambodia at about 4pm. Visa – Check, Passport – Check, Damaged Luggage – Check (cheers Silk Air). Leaving the terminal and we were ready to take on our first taste of crazy driving as we took the invitation from a tuk tuk driver to take us to our guesthouse about an hour away. We thought we’d seen some crazy things in Malaysia and Borneo however from 4 people on a moped to 30 people in a people carrier, we had truly arrived in SE Asia.


Obviously along the way the first thing our driver decided to do was to test out his hands free, consisting of shoving his mobile into his helmet whilst buzzing along the bustling evening traffic surrounding Phnom Penh. A few minutes later and we were being offered the menu of things to do and see in and around the city – including the opportunity to fire a gun, throw a grenade and of course bazooka a cow. Having finally beaten the crowds we arrived at our guesthouse where we eagerly waited…and waited… and waited, for the arrival of Soph’s course-mate Sam and her friend Jen, who no more than 3 hours later finally arrived from a delayed bus journey! That evening we nipped to a rather overpriced restaurant, especially considering the food that followed – overcooked and tasteless to say the least, but enjoyed catching up on each others travelling stories! 


Skulls for all to see at the Killing Fields
The next morning the four of us headed out to what is known as the Killing Fields, a bit of a heart-in-mouth moment as our guide explained how the Khmer Rouge went about their mass slaughtering of innocent Cambodians during the mid to late 1970’s – definitely worth a Wikipedia search when you have the time. From the tower of over 8,000 skulls to the mass grave sites as well as a killing tree – a tree in which the soldiers would sling children against in order to kill them, they did what they could to save bullets. In the afternoon we headed to S21 (or S10 as Sam called it, which kept on confusing our driver), which shows the site in which a former school was used to hold those next in line for the slaughtering. It really was both an upsetting and disturbing experience as the photos of those held (many as young as 3 or 4) in the incredibly tiny cells were there for all to see. 

Faces of those who were tortured at S21
Us outside the Royal Palace

The following day we spent the morning visiting the Royal Palace before heading on the 6 hour bus journey to Siem Reap – not before mass confusion as we were firstly sent to an office in the middle of Phnom Penh before the company realised we were due to catch a bus from a different location – however we did eventually arrive in Siem Reap where we tucked into a sizzling Khmer BBQ, which included crocodile, snake and kangaroo meat.



For our first full day in Siem Reap the four of us set off on bikes to tour Ankor Wat – an area of land with over 100 ancient temples – an incredible site, infact one of the Seven Man-Made Wonders of the World! During the day we saw quite a number of temples, of which included one that was used for the Tomb Raider film. 
Monks leaving Angkor Wat
Soph, Sam and Jen posing on the Angkor Steps




















As for the main temple, we began to sit watching the sunset until a police officer kicked us out, before saying he could show us the best view of it, for a small fee of course – that small fee being $20. Eventually however, we managed to get it for $10 between us all, and having bribed the policeman we did get to just about see sunset having clambered over bits of scaffolding along the way, no need for health and safety in SE Asia I guess. Following a tiring day cycling in 35 degree heat we headed back for an evening along pub street going from bar to bar as we celebrated our birthday a day early as Sam and Jen were off to Bangkok the next day.

 
A selection of photos from our day at Angkor Wat. Left: The four of us inside the temple from Tomb Raider. Centre: Our rather cool bikes outside another temple. Right: Soph and Sam at sunset

Write off…the only words to describe the next day as we didn’t arise until 2pm – what a great way to start a birthday. Since I in particular hadn’t managed to get a present for Soph we headed to a 5* resort where I treated us to an incredible massage and spa experience.
Sunrise at Angkor Wat
The following day we had arranged with a tuc tuc driver to take us to see the sunrise at Angkor Wat. However, as time ran on he didn’t arrive so instead our hostel owner woke one of their workers who offered to take us. Alas, the other tuc tuc driver arrived and was not happy when we told him he was too late and we had instead took the one we had awoken (bear in mind it was 5.45am). Watching the sunrise over the main temple was an incredible site and we then spent a few more hours seeing yet more temples, however once templed out we headed back for the day where we packed an prepared for our bus journey the next day to Bangkok. 
Cool photo of our TukTuk from our final day at Angkor Wat

Wednesday, 6 April 2011

Swinging with the Orangutans!

Semenggoh Wildlife Centre

Thursday 3rd March - Arriving from Singapore around 10.30am, we hopped in a taxi to our hostel – the 40 minute journey costing just £5. Having settled in at the hostel we journeyed off in search of a bite to eat, to try the local specialty ‘Laksa’ (noodle soup) that Bindi, our host, had recommended. Beforehand, however, we realised we had left our camera in Singapore and to say the least we weren’t the happiest for the remainder of the day. Fortunately however, we do have other cameras with us. Following lunch we wandered around Kuching in order to get our bearings, and after a brief visit to the museum, which wasn’t the greatest, we came back to begin deciding what we wanted to see whilst we were in Borneo.

Just one of many

Since we had a week, we decided that we would definitely have to see the orang-utans at Semenggoh Wildlife Sanctuary, which was famous for its rescue of wild orang-utans in distress whether it be from injury, illegal capture or orphanage. Thus, on our second day we ventured to Semenggoh in the afternoon, and we were not disappointed to say the least, it really was an incredible experience. Although it is called a wildlife sanctuary it is infact a natural rainforest and the orang-utans are classed as “Semi-Wild” as they can either feed from natural berries and fruits in the trees, or come down to the feeding areas where the centre gives them various nutrients.




Mother and Baby
When we arrived there were no animals in sight, however gradually noises appeared from within the forest and the trees started swaying and they began to appear one by one, some with babies gripping on for dear life as these incredible animals showed off their natural beauty. We saw about 10 orang-utans of varying ages and a mother and baby came up really close which was cute. Following that, we ran for the bus a good 1.5km away in the heat of the day (as they only come once every 90 minutes) and whilst bright red in the face and dripping with sweat met an English couple, Dave and Sue, who we instantly got on with as they had also travelled to a number of places we were due to go to.





Mother and Baby sharing a bunch of bananas
The next morning we decided to wake up early and visit the sanctuary again as there are only two feeding times during the day – 9am until 10am and 3pm until 4pm – to see whether there were any different behaviours as well as to try and spot the big famous male, Ritchie. Unfortunately the morning viewing wasn’t as impressive as the day before and it was overcrowded – although the activity from the orang-utans we did see was interesting. During the afternoon we went to Dave and Sue’s rather swanky hotel that they invited us to so that we could relax by their pool and use the gym (first bit of exercise for a while apart from our run for the bus). In the evening we opted for our first fancy meal in Asia at a place inaptly named ‘Junk’ where I had a stunning lamb shank, lush!

Night Scene from the Sarawak River looking over Kuching
As Sunday arrived we headed to Bako National Park, again meeting up with Dave and Sue. Upon arrival we immediately realised we had run out of cash, in the middle of nowhere, at which point I thought it be appropriate to ask whether there was a cash point near – to which Dave found hilarious. As we had to take a boat to get fully into the park, D&S kindly paid for us in the form of an IOU, and we eventually arrived and set off to tackle the incredible and vast rainforest. Following the first of two hikes, we returned to the mangroves where we had started in anticipation of seeing the Proboscis Monkeys which gather amongst the mangrove trees. Since this is one of the only places in the world where these incredibly odd looking creatures are found, it was quite a privilege to see them, and their strange noses, in their natural surroundings. Following a second walk which lasted for 3 hours we set off for Kuching, along with Dave and Sue, who having had to spend the whole day trekking with us, as well as help subsidise our days misdemeanour, invited us to have dinner with them at a seafood hawker centre on top of a car park, aptly named Top Spot! They kindly paid for our dinner (“poor backpackers” but yes we did pay back our IOU) and then we all headed out to a bar to watch the United vs. Liverpool game…probably not worth mentioning really given the result.


Proboscis Monkey - Bako National Park
Dave and Sue on the boat to Bako











The last few days were spent on an overnight trip to a longhouse tribe deep within the jungle surroundings. The trip itself was somewhat disappointing as the tribe did not seem at all interested in the fact that we had come to visit them, and it was made less exciting by the fact that it was just the two of us and our guide who didn’t really speak to us, however we did try to make the most of it and it was fascinating to see 24 families live in one Longhouse. Our final day was spent with another visit to Semenggoh to say our goodbyes to the orang-utans before setting our sites on Cambodia! 

Pure Luxury: Our 4 Poster Bed complete with Mosquito Net

5 Star Bathroom Facilities

"Can we come back next week, I just love it here!"


P.S. I know I said how bad the longhouse trip was, however we feel the pictures help to set the scene! 
If the boredom doesn't kill her, there's always the rice wine
Our enthusiastic hosts...especially the one on the right :s

At least we came back with something to remember from the trip